Christchurch- a city in transition

The site of the reconstruction of the Cathedral

As one would expect there are hazards to be found in Christchurch.

Of the two while the former may be feel more immediate the latter is certainly the more serious. Christchurch is one of the more recent reminders of the potentially catastrophic impact of earthquakes on a region.

In the aftermath of the devastating earthquake of 2016 over 80% of the buildings in the central district where we are staying had to be demolished. 186 people lost their lives.

It is hard to reconcile that calamity with the vibrancy of Christchurch in 2023. While there are certainly still many signs of the massive restoration and reconstruction project that is ongoing in the city, the core is a vibrant, pedestrian friendly area. The streets are full of public art and new laneways, food halls and indoor markets have popped up everywhere.

The ongoing restoration of Christchurch Cathedral, a stones throw from our hotel.

We arrived relatively late in the evening and only just had time to put our bags in our room and head out to grab something to eat before the kitchens closed in the local restaurants. We have noticed that stores close early and that many restaurants only have late hours through the weekend: we’ve been told that there is an acute labour shortage in the hospitality and retail industry in New Zealand and indeed it seems that everyone is hiring.

Waking up the next day we struck out on foot determined to see as much as we could before the predicted rain set in. We focused on the Avon River pathways into the Botanic Gardens followed by a detour through the Christ’s College area to the Christchurch Museum of Art.

ANZAC Memorial at the Bridge of Remembrance
Deadly tram sighting
Murals and Public Art are everywhere
Punting on the Avon.
Christchurch is certainly the most deliberately British of Kiwi cities.

The gardens were absolutely spectacular especially considering we are well into fall here.

Botanical Gardens looking into the Christ’s College area
Can you spot the floating house?

The art gallery has only recently reopened following the damage of the earthquake and is a very engaging and bright space. Entrance to galleries and museums seems to be free across New Zealand.

Christchurch Art Gallery
“Cass”, by Rita Angus. A famous painting evoking the relationship between railway and landscape, very reminiscent of our train journey yesterday! We would see this location on the Trans Alpine trip as it passes through Cass.

Next was a walk back to the fabulous Riverside Market and food hall where we grabbed lunch and coffee before browsing the laneway shops between the river and Cathedral Square.

The Riverside Market
Truth
Without question, the best toasties in the Southern Hemisphere.
We had #’s 2 &3

It did pour rain in the afternoon. The plan for dinner was to visit the nearby Little High Food Hall. While it was only a 10 minute walk the weather was wicked: strong winds and lashing rain. However the destination was worth the journey in this case.

Little High is a cluster of buildings connected to a central hall with a wide range of offerings in terms of food (burgers to dumplings, Mexican to Thai) and drink (beer, gin, mojitos and margaritas). Slightly drenched we settled on Thai food and beer, both delicious.

An early get up tomorrow and we’re off to the train station and the Trans Alpine train!

5 responses to “Christchurch- a city in transition”

  1. “Dutch Tosti” is fake news. Totally fake. Pineapple with Mustard and Cheddar?!

    Probably German Kiwis doing Dutch-washing, like Schneiders Meats did after the war.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. The original Dutch Toastie- herring, mayonnaise and Old Amsterdam- wasn’t a big seller.

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  2. Haha after all that beer you had better set the alarm really loud 🤪the toasties look delicious! The flower gardens are just a treat to see as well !

    Liked by 1 person

  3. BTW Happy Birthday to Rich from Truus & myself!

    I’m sure the Trans Alpine will provide for a memorable BDay… Can’t wait to read/see the tale.

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