
First a correction. There is some confusion about what exactly the word Uluru refers to. I was under the impression that it was a widespread replacement for Ayers Rock. While this is true when it comes to the specific site, the resort and airport are still referred to as Ayers Rock and the little town that services the resort is Yulara. Anangu did not want the airport and resort to be branded with the name Uluru- this is apparently reserved for “the rock”.
We stayed at the Sails in the Desert hotel, which was well situated with comfortable rooms, a beautiful pool, nice (if overpriced) restaurants and easy access to the little shopping square. However, the memorable moments all took place outside of the resort.



Our evenings in the Red Center were pretty magical. It is a gentle time of day: the searing heat and flies dissipate and a blanket of stars unfolds overhead. We’ve seen some incredible star fields in Northern Ontario but what you see in the Outback is horizon to horizon bright, full of (to us) unfamiliar constellations and stories waiting to be heard.
The folks at Ayers Rock Resort have certainly found ways to engage visitors with the Outback in the evenings.
Field of Light
Field of Light is an art installation coordinated by British artist Bruce Munro who is well known for large scale light installations. This one is next level: 50 000 lights over four football fields in size at the foot of Uluru (visually speaking that is: it’s actually about 20km away). By all accounts the project was a logistical nightmare between the cultural sensitivity of negotiations with Anangu to the actual acquisition, transportation and installation of the materials.
The installation opened in April of 2016 for a planned six month run. Its popularity with both Anangu and tourists has led to it be extended again and again, most recently until 2027.
There are a number of ways to experience the Field of Light. We chose a package that began with a catered viewing of Uluru at dusk atop another dune, followed by a stroll into the installation itself.





As the Field of Light emerges it is certainly impressive from the vantage point of the dunes. The lights emerge slowly, almost in counterpoint to the stars themselves. It was almost a full moon so I am a little curious about how much starker the contrast between sky and field might have been with a new moon.

Although the initial view is impressive the best way to experience the Field of Light is to walk through it. There are a couple of walking options: we chose the longest which takes about 30 minutes.







Another incredible day closes in Uluru!
Sounds of Silence
On our last evening in Uluru, after a blistering afternoon visit to Kata Tjuṯa in 38 degree temperatures, we attended the Sounds of Silence dinner on another dune platform in the relative cool of an Outback evening.
This event has been written up by a number of travel writers so I was preparing myself to be a little underwhelmed, particularly when we boarded one of two coach buses heading out to the location.
I’m happy to report it was fantastic.
We gathered on yet another dune with magnificent views of both Uluru and Kata Tjuṯa, the latter bathed in the glow of the setting sun.





One of the best parts of the evening was making a stronger connection with two couples we had seen on a number of excursions. Kevin and Donna, hobby farmers from Victoria, and Brad and Jackie from Canberra (Jackie via Scotland) were great fun and helped turn a great night into a memorable one.
One of the wonderful things about travel is meeting new people, just as one of the sad things about travel is not having the time you might like to really get to know these people! I know we all wished that we had connected a little earlier on the trip.

Other than the food, which was good, and the drink, which was plentiful, the highlights included an impressive didgeridoo performance and an entertaining star field talk. There was also a very special moment where the collective group was asked to observe a few minutes of silence as the lights went off under the night sky. The expression “silence fell” was never more apt. It was such a privilege to be present in this space with these people and it made for a fabulous end to our trip to the Red Center.
Next stop, the Blue Mountains with Sarah and Ian!
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